On Vineyards

vinyardpic1Since I haven’t won the lottery yet (I keep forgetting to buy a ticket) and was too obstinate to follow my grandparents advice to go to medical school, all grapes at Matello are sourced from small family owned and farmed vineyards in Oregon’s beautiful north Willamette Valley. I was raised here and feel proud to be able to make Pinot Noir in Oregon. It is a fickle grape that only grows and produces the extraordinary wines it’s capable of in places with the perfect geography, soil, and climate. Oregon’s warm dry summers and cool prolonged fall are ideal for ripening this unique and beautiful grape. It takes a remarkable confluence of great vineyard site, great farming, and great weather, along with care, respect, and attention to detail in the winery to produce the world class Pinot Noirs that Oregon does. Last, I hate the idea of wine being nothing but a commodity. All of our farmers are people I admire, who are willing to farm the right way even if it is harder, costs more, and is rewarded with precious little credit for the work.

My one consistent demand is that the vines not be irrigated. I believe in terroir. That there is a voice to each special place that Pinot Noir is grown and that irrigation is not a part of that voice. I also happen to believe that scallops plumped up with water to weigh more don’t taste as good as scallops that are fresh from their natural environment. Irrigating just seems like an easy way to minimize risk and not have to search for alternative solutions-and at some point there is a temptation to plump things up. Great Pinot Noir is never made by playing it safe. It comes from meticulous farming, working hard at a craft, and conscientious work in the cellar.

Whistling Ridge Vineyard

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The Whistling Ridge vineyard sits atop the ridgeline that forms the backbone of the prestigious Ribbon Ridge AVA.It’s picturesque views down across the Willamette Valley are bewitching and idyllic. Rows of Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay bask in Oregon’s warm dry summer heat. Shallow sedimentary soils are only a few inches thick, leaving the vines in a constant struggle for moisture.  These non-irrigated vines force their way through hardpan and basalt rock searching for any hint of moisture to help them survive the summer heat. Pinot Noir from this vineyard comes into being complex and tightly wound, and the white wines with a bead of minerality and nerve focused by the constant breeze that shows up in the evenings.

Winter’s Hill Vineyard

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Since 2002 Winter’s Hill has been an integral part of Matello Pinot Noir production. Our block was planted in 1990 to the Pommard clone of Pinot Noir. Located in the Dundee Hills AVA, the soils at Winter’s Hill are volcanic. The vineyard is certified LIVE. Our block is not irrigated and the Gladhart family have made the commitment to responsible farming that is becoming a signature of small Oregon farms. Our single vineyard bottlings from this vineyard continue to be among the most sought after and highly regarded of the Matello Pinot Noirs.

Bishop Creek Vineyard

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Planted in 1988-90, located in the Yamhill-Carlton District this vineyard has a number of details that make it special. Phylloxera hasn’t hit yet, so the vines are own rooted (not grafted), closely spaced, and non-irrigated. Vineyard manager Jeremy Saville and I have always shared a common view of Pinot Noir and his personal attention to detail and applied common sense are among the strongest reasons I work with this vineyard. It’s farmed sustainably (certified LIVE) without pesticides or herbicides, allowing me to feel the satisfaction of producing a wine that I am proud of on all levels.

Deux Vert Vineyard

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Often the aspects of a vineyard that make it unique can be intangibles, hard to see in a superficial look at elevation, clones, soil types, etc. It’s hard to communicate Mike and Patty Green’s approach to farming at Deux Vert. They have the courage to explore varietals, like Syrah, Viognier, and Tempranillo, often considered too risky for the northern Willamette Valley's cool climate. They have a set of values they farm by, and are dedicated to, but not dogmatic about. The vineyard is viewed as a place but also as a community, where the health of the workers who care for the plants is viewed as equally important as the health of the plants. So really it’s a perfect fit.

Credits

Design: Ovenlight
Photos: Maya von Geldern

Copyright

© 2012 Matello Wine.
All Rights Reserved.

Contact Matello Wine

Marcus Goodfellow
(503) 939-1308
925 NE 7th St.
McMinnville, OR 97128
info@matellowines.com
www.matellowines.com

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